Men at Work – Suit Essentials

Pictured: Hugo Boss; Tom Ford; Zegna

Whenever I’ve an important meeting coming up, a big part of my preparation always includes putting together the right look. A friend working in HR tells me that despite all the policies and procedures in the world, most job candidates live or die during the instant they walk into the interview room. He calls it ‘The Two Second Rule.’ Nowadays, getting the job, it seems, is as much about quintessential style as it is about talent or ability. Follow these rules, guys, and you’re far more likely to impress.

A suit for every shape
The type of suit you choose will have a huge impact on first impressions. Double-breasted suits are very much making a comeback after several years of the skinny suit domination. Designers such as Tom Ford, Dries Von Noten and Zegna all recently showed modern double-breasted suits on the catwalk. Double-breasted suits can only be worn with buttons closed therefore they are less versatile and more formal then single breasted. That said, they yield a more elegant look. Double-breasted suits tend to draw attention to the tummy area so if your gut is larger than it should be, go for a single-breasted suit. Single-breasted jackets look good on just about everyone. Hugo Boss or Canali at Louis Copeland are two of my favourites. Always avoid skinny-fit trousers – nobody likes mamel toe (male camel-toe!).

Belt & Braces
A simple, slim belt with an unfussy buckle always looks elegant with a suit. Alternatively braces are uber-stylish, provided that is, they are button-on rather than clip-on. Try a pair and feel that Wall Street surge!

The Shirt
A fitted shirt is a prerequisite but bare in mind, like suits, shirt styles also vary. If you are of average build, then I’d recommend opting for a classic fitted shirt. Make sure the proportions are not overly generous for your frame or you risk being swamped. Slim fitted shirts tend to have additional contoured panels on either side so if you’re on the rotund end of the spectrum, please avoid these. When it comes to colour, match your shirt colour to your skin tone first and your suit second. Why not introduce texture to add interest?

The Tie
The tie, or indeed bow tie, can be the making of a suit. Can you ditch it and still look cool? Not since ‘the crash’, you can’t. Add a tie clip to bring that something extra to your look but don’t ever tuck your tie into your trousers. Men in Portlaoise still do apparently! And never match a tie to a pocket square. Don’t go for novelty either. A Daffy Duck tie ain’t going to get you the job. Unless Disney are hiring.

The Shoes
One word. Brogues. Classic office and business wear, perfect with a suit and essential for interviews. A pin-stripe navy suit with brown shoes is a classic look that’s quite simply hard to beat.

Last word, never think of your suit as a uniform. It should be worn with individual flair and with poise, not as something you have to wear. Good luck with those interviews!

By Darren Kennedy

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